RGB fading for ATtiny85

code courtesy of the Internet/help pages

RGB colour cycle Arduino

cycle the colour wheel using RGB LED with Arduino PWM pin Digital Write cycle the colour wheel using RGB LED with Arduino PWM pin Analog Write http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ColorCrossfader

Supposedly quick and easy install guide to 3D scanning with Kinect and Reconstructme

Library is hosting interesting workshops of 3D scanning, 3D printing and also ebook making next week. So I thought of bringing my sixpence 3D scanning kit that uses an ardunino turntable, an android phone for image acquisition, and 123D catch to generate a 3D model, and also a "known" 3D scanning solution that is made up of M$ Kinect, and ReconstructMe to the maker space event. Back in London, I have used/tested/setup a rig for 3D scanning using the latter on my own laptop (dell XPS) . Installation (ReconstructMe console v0.6.0-405 + OpenNI + PrimeSense) was a breeze. So I assume I would only take 1 hour or so to setup, but in reality............

Installation supposed to be a breeze (as per the setup in London). Somehow, fate took the other turn and I have spent my weekends hiding in my office battling compatibility between kinect drivers<--->Graphic Card drivers <->OpenNI drivers<-->ReconstructMe versions.

The lastest version of ReconstructMeQT suppose to work out of the box in 2 steps. First, install the kinect drivers on windows, lastly install ReconstructMeQT. Because my installation does not work out of the box, therefore I have an adventure over the weekends to find the possible solution.

Now, before you attempt to install ReconstructMe, please do this 

step0

1. Check out the compatibility matrix for the graphic card supported.

2. Install the latest version of the NVidia graphic card driver (v3XX.YY) or ATi Radeon

3. If you have not install any Kinect drivers on windows, GOOD! Otherwise, uninstall the device and delete the drivers. Device Manager-> Right click on the  Kinect devices that is installed under as XBOX kinect or kinect for windows or NUI kinect or Libfree kinect->uninstall (and check on the box that says delete the driver file)

The very general steps after step0 are

1. Install Kinect Drivers 

2. Insall OpenNI drivers 

3. Install ReconstructMe 

Step1: Install drivers for kinect on windows (32bit or 64bit)

Kinect drivers come in a few flavours. Choose either one of the flavours to work with ReconstructMe. The two major camps are PrimeSense (SensorKinect093-Bin-Win64-v5.1.2.1 or SensorKinect-unstable or Sensor-Win32-5.1.6.6-Redist) and M$ (KinectSDK-v1.8-Setup or KinectRunTime v1.7). I have tried all of the variety on 3 laptops, yielding different results with ReconstructMe.

Step2: Install OpenNI (OpenNI-Windows-x86-2.2.0.33 or OpenNI-Windows-x64-2.1.0 or OpenNI-Win32-1.5.7.10-Dev or OpenNI-Win64-1.5.7.10-Dev)

Note: Step2 not required if using ReconstructMeQT

Step3: Install ReconstructMeQT (ReconstructMe Setup-1.2.95). The supposed Finishing Step.

Somehow, in laptopA the GUI hangs at initialization, laptopB, the GUI crashes.

Step3.1: Install ReconstructMe Console (ReconstructMe_Installer_NonCommercial_405)

Somehow, in laptopA the command window hangs at initialization; laptopB, the graphic card chosen by the ReconstructMe is Intel HD4000 instead of GT630M, and crashes after capturing

Sadly, nothing work on my work laptopA. Then I took another laptopB to test, and then another laptopC. 

The laptops are defined as:

laptopA: intel i7, 8GB ram, windows7 32bit (Yes, I know this is dumb, due to some ****. please spare me the embarrassment), and NVS3100M. 

laptopB: intel i5, 8GB ram, windows7 64bit, GT630M (with intel HD4000). 

laptopC: intel C2D, 4GB ram, windows7 32bit, ATi Radeon HD3400 (not in compatibility matrix).  

Unsatisfied with the outcomes, I have brute-force possible combination (with some smart guessing on the combination of course) of drivers (very tedious, I am really tired from the mundane installing and uninstalling regime) to get 3D scanning to work on my 3 laptops.

my winning recipe works on LaptopB by

1. Install KinectSDK-v1.8-Setup

2. Install OpenNI-Win32-1.5.7.10-Dev [yes, a 32bit OpenNI driver on a 64bit windows 7. Weird, but it works. Installing 64bit OpenNI drivers game me load of problems such as OpenNI drivers not found]

3. Install ReconstructMe_Installer_NonCommercial_405 (v0.6.0-405)

4. Modify scanner parameter with "ReconstructMe.exe --device 1 --scan --sensor mskinect,0 --config cfg/volume_1m_highres.txt" without the quotes 

phewwwww.... now, lets do some 3D scanning!!!!!

demo at the SP library. picture courtesy of kylie the librarian.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.601997073170940.1073741862.106331659404153&type=3

I would love to find some time to get skanect to work, as a counter example to ReconstructMe. Time, is scarce and I only have 24 hours per day.

sixpence 3D scanning kit

While I was spending my summer in London typing away on my thesis. One of my extra curricular activities was to pop over next door Institute of Making to make some interesting stuff. At one of the workshops, we did some 3D scanning using both open source such as reconstructme + kinect, and also proprietary solution, the Next Engine. Scanning a human object using the kinect at the absent of a scanning rig is really tiresome. Holding the laptop, the kinect, and power supply circling the subject at incremental steps is tedious. Nonetheless, here I present to you: yours truly in meshlab.

Over the weekends, I thought of an idea of making dirt cheap 3D scanning with existing items. What I mean existing items, are items on my desk such as an android mobile phone, arduino, and servo. While researching on cloud computing and it's application, I discovered a really cool website http://apps.123dapp.com/catch/ that leverages on cloud computing to generate a 3D model based on multiple pictures of an object. Taking (at most 70) pictures of an object at 360 degrees manually without a rig is really tiring. So, my weekend project for the 3D scanning kit to automatically take pictures at 360 degrees of a subject without human intervention; can be decomposed to 4 sub parts. part1: I need a turntable of some sort to rotate my subject 360degress. part 2: There must be some sort of communication channel between my turntable and the picture taking apparatus. part3: picture taking apparatus must be capable of receiving commands. part4: upload pictures to 123D catch to generate the 3D model.

part1: turntable

turntable with subject container

manually to take pictures

if you wonder what is the pen doing there

Parts needed. An arduino, full rotation servo, code.

The full rotation servo (FRS) I got on hand was picked up from a rubbish dump. Upon testing, it is still functioning, how lucky. Here comes the interesting problem. With the use of the example code of sweep from arduino, the FRS is behaving erratically. It does not stop exactly at 15 degrees and continue to spin. Reason being, the servo is modified; the "horn" on a gear inside the servo is broken off. tough luck using standard code. So, I have to come out with a scheme to stop the FRS at every 15degrees via code.

As for the container of the subject. I have used newspaper to create the background for the subject. Such that when the 3D model generating algorithm is running, the patterns on the newspaper can be used as the reference point. That is according to the guide of the 123D catch.

Part2: communication

parts needed: android device (API level 17 onwards), OTG cable

Reluctant quite I am, to purchase a bluetooth shield for arduino for communication. Furthermore, I am using an android phone running android 4.3 (API level 19). In this particular version, it supports direct USB connection from say a keyboard or mouse to the android phone via microUSB or OTG cable ( USB typeA female to microUSB male). It is much more cost effective for me to use OTG than the bluetooth shield.

A quick look at the opensource community, I stumble upon this github https://github.com/dtbaker/android-arduino-usb-serial i believe was forked from https://code.google.com/p/usb-serial-for-android/. Many thanks to the open source contributors for allowing me to quickly try out code for USB serial from android <--> arduino. Just a point to note, the baud rate for the android is 115200, so arduino must setup serial at the same baudrate. 

combining part1 and 2, I have devised a scheme for my 3D scanning kit. Arduino turn the turntable every 15degrees, send ASCII characters to android device to signal for taking a picture

The code for arduino is here 

Another point to note: print out the serial data received on android to prove the assumption that it is going to be the same as per received on hyper terminal. I learnt it the hard way.

Part3: multiple picture taking on android device without human intervention.

There are excellent tutorials such as this and this for writing manual code to use the android device's camera to take ONE picture. Having wrote my last android app from scratch on my HTC magic, android 1.6 (API level 4), I assumed that I would have not any issues using the API for android 4.3 (API level 19). Besides that, having use MIT app inventor for mockup and POC without writing code from ground up, and using the standard features following the standard methodology; left me jaded when it comes to developing android app.

The SOP for taking a picture on android device via camera API is quite straightforward. Create an activity. Add a button to listen to a an event to take a picture. Add a view to the frame layout for the preview from the camera. Save the picture to the device's memory. After picture is taken, refresh the preview. I assumed that I would only spend 4 hours max after office hours to write a piece of code that would automatically take multiple pictures without user intervention (nobody click on the button to take picture). Little did I for see I would stare at the code for a few nights, wrestling with the android code framework finding out where are the crashes; due to the nature of pictureCallBack(), onPictureTaken(), and refresh preview were supposed to be used. The experience and amount of code I have tried to challenge my assumptions such as race condition, critical section, multi threading that I thought might be the root cause of the crashes warrant for a lengthy post by itself.

Nonetheless, after staring and experimenting for few nights straight, i present to you The code of this android app that is hosted on github

https://github.com/teos0009/uploadmy3dscanningkit

Part 4: upload pictures to 123D catch

Combing part1,2,3, setup a stand for the android device to take pictures.

copy the 31 images from android phone to be uploaded to the 123D catch

Generate a 3D model from the pictures uploaded

Note: no model generated (I got a blank screen after the supposed completion of 123D catch[online]), and I have waited close to 30min to save the project, but without success.
Edit: I have tried to take a few shots of the same subject manually and upload to 123D catch, just to prove my assumption (pictures taken by my app is not usable) is wrong. Surprisingly, no models generated too. really weird

Some fine tuning is required: I noticed the picture taken by my android device was out of focus. Maybe that is the reason why the model was not generated. pictures generated from sixpence 3D scanning kit do work!

Edit: I placed my subject too close to the lens, hence the depth of field caused the blurry images akin to blur subject and clear background. I am still trying to find the API that allows for macro mode auto focus.

Edit: For some weird reasons, 123D catch online version does not work on my laptop. I have left it running over night and the next day I check my computer, still no model generated. However, the 123D offline version does work, using the pictures generated by sixpence 3D scanning kit.

uploading pictures

processing the capture into 3D model

sitting there looking pretty

THIS IS SPARTAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!

A quick view in meshlab. further manipulations are needed before 3D printing. For starters, the newspaper background got to go.

update:
the 3D model opened in meshmixer. the news paper portion is selected and then deleted by pressing key "x"

there are a few gaps need to be fixed in the edited 3D model before it can be printed.

the 3D model is edited into a watertight model, ready for the 3D printer.

the 3D printed model

poor lad's quick and dirty hack on wireless headphones that uses bluetooth

Since a long time ago, I really wanted to be liberated from my desk. Liberated, free from the shackles that "wired" me down to the computer table.

the wired headphones is such an inconvenience on my desk. I have 1 phablet, 1 laptop, 2 desktop that require some attention. Most of the time. I would plug in(and out) my headphones into the ones that needed my attention. My smarty-pants friend suggested getting one headphones for each of my toys. How cost effective.

Since all my toys came with bluetooth, My plan was to stream audio via bluetooth from the computer that needed my attention at the mouse click. A quick round up in Sim Lim Square, to my horror, wireless headphones come at a price range of S$79 to S$199. The lower end model use Infra-Red, the higher end model uses 2.4Ghz bandwidth (not necessary bluetooth). I am tempted to get the cheapest wireless headphones, but a few questions kept me ponder. I wonder how much data can be carry over the Infra-Red spectrum in this application? Can I achieve a minimum of 44.1KHz audio quality over the spectrum? Do I need to be in the LOS (Line Of Sight) of the Infra-Red? What happens if I move away from the transmitting end of the Infra Red (e.g go behind the base), will I suffer from signal loss? Nothing much can be gleam from the box, nor the shop keeper offer some help. The bugger is only interested to shove the most expensive model down my throat. Hey, Do I look like a rich kid do you?!

Being the cheapskate, I could have deconstruct the wireless headphones to smaller components. I would need a wireless receiver, and a headphone. The wireless receiver, it can be a bluetooth receiver with audio output. This category of product is very popular and widely available on Internet. A quick lookup on the popular website, the price ranges from U$ 6.20 to U$12.98. Being the sucker that can't wait, I paid S$30 for the  Wireless Bluetooth audio receiver Stereo HiFi A2DP Stereo Audio Dongle Adapter Connector 3.5mm Receiver at Sim Lim Square. Initially I saw one of the products was pasted with a S$18 price tag. Happily I went to the cashier. To my dismay at the cashier, the shop keeper quoted me S$36 and insisted that there was a mistake in pasting the price sticker. tough luck.

I got my S$12 headphones from cash coverters, the friendly surplus shop that is native to Singapore. 

To setup a bluetooth device is a no brainer. First turn on the bluetooth device. On windows 7, select the blue tooth icon, then scan and select the intended bluetooth device. Follow the onscreen instructions to complete installation.

Next, "combine" the bluetooth device and headphone. This is the tricky part, because it requires some hand skills and design skills to make it look BEAUTIFUL.
 

Nonetheless, the nett effect of saving money (S$199-$30-$12=S$157) is indispensable. saved S$157=> like a BOSS !

safe arduino: top 10 ways

10 Ways NOT TO Kill An Arduino

method1: use a BJT switch made of transistor (such as 2N2222, ULN2003A. etc) to switch "high load" (e.g load exceeding arduino's rating). more here: http://whites.sdsmt.edu/classes/ee320/notes/320Lecture24.pdf method2: use a Pull Up Resistor (or pull down resistor, which ever convenien) on Input pins. More here: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pull-up-resistors/what-is-a-pull-up-resistor  method3: always check POLARITY of Supply method4: Arduino is DC. IF want to control AC or higher load DC than the ones recommended for Arduino, use a SSR (Solid State Relay) or Mechanical Relay. More here: http://shin-ajaran.blogspot.sg/2011/10/arduino-solid-state-relay-ssr.html method5: always check input (and also output) rating (e.g voltage, current, polarity) of the electronic components to used with arduino. method6: check for common ground connectivity for all electronic components method7: always TURN OFF supply to an arduino when connecting electronic compoents to arduino. method8: use a diode (e.g IN4148) to ensure electrical signal (e.g current) only flow one direction method9: use a logic level shifter connecting devices with different logic levels e.g 3.3v, 5v and 15v. method10: always check circuitry and check again before turning on.

kill arduino: top 10 ways

10 Ways to KILL arduino

sjteo: I have loads of dead arduino in my office that were accumulated when I was away. I think we should set up a best practices. URL: http://ruggedcircuits.com/html/ancp01.html Quick Links: Method #1: Shorting I/O Pins to Ground VERY COMMON PROBLEM! Method #2: Shorting I/O Pins to Each Other VERY COMMON PROBLEM! Method #3: Apply Overvoltage to I/O Pins  Method #4: Apply External Vin Power Backwards Method #5: Apply >5V to the 5V Connector Pin Method #6: Apply >3.3V to the 3.3V Connector Pin Method #7: Short Vin to GND Method #8: Apply 5V External Power with Vin Load Method #9: Apply >13V to Reset Pin Method #10: Exceed Total Microcontroller Current VERY COMMON PROBLEM!

Story of 2 Folder (Android Development)

On Eclipse toolbars-> Windows -> Android Virtual Device -> Create new AVD

Some how the newly created AVD refuse to start, with error message, PANIC: cannot not start android-virtual-device-name

A quick hack to fix this problem of PANIC android virtual device can't start is included as per the screenshot.